Ingredients
Incorporating a wide variety of animals and plants, strictly selecting ingredients according to the seasons, and matching food based on their properties are the outstanding traits of Su cuisine. With abundant resources, a livable climate, and central geological location, food production and supply in Jiangsu have long been efficient. Agriculture has thrived in Jiangsu since the time of civilization. Grain crops, mainly rice and wheat, are the staple food of Jiangsu residents. Plentiful agricultural and aquaculture production provides numerous ingredient options, breeding a delicate and intricate cuisine style.
Neighboring the East China Sea and freshwater lakes and rivers, Jiangsu province is blessed with copious aquatic organisms. In 2019, the aquaculture production of Jiangsu province was 4.84 million tons (1.07 billion pounds), according to the National Bureau of Statistics of China, with 1.37 million tons being marine production and 3.47 million tons being freshwater production [4]. The high fishery production in Jiangsu province is equivalent to 1/10 of the National totals in the U.S [5]. Consequently, fish and crustaceans, ideal sources of high-quality proteins, are commonly served as the main course of Su cuisine.
For crustaceans, Chinese mitten crab (Eriocheir Sinensis, 大闸蟹), a nutritious meaty hairy crab, symbolizes of the arrival of Jiangsu’s autumn [6]. Before the successful development of industrial agriculture, the Chinese mitten crab was not readily available because of its low production. Therefore, crawfish, an invasive species in many counties, became the alternative to crabs in Jiangsu. Nowadays, crawfish has gained much popularity in the younger generation and has been entitled “the soul of nightlife.” As crabs become more affordable, high-quality crawfishes even surpass the price of crabs. Crawfish production in Jiangsu was ranked in the top five in China in 2019 [7]. Xuyi (盱眙), a small county in Huaian city (淮安市), Jiangsu province, is famous for its crawfish course. In 2021, Xuyi crawfish has been listed in the China-EU Agreement on Geographical Indications [8].
Besides rich aquatic food options, the subtropical climate has also brought Su cuisine abundant herbs and vegetables. In 2019, the vegetable production in Jiangsu was ranked the fourth in China, contributing 55.355 million tons in total [9]. Tea leaves, bamboo shoots, mushrooms, lotus roots, wild rice stem, water caltrop, Chinese water chestnut, and watershield are indigenous vegetables frequently consumed by locals. Herbs, such as purple comme, amomum, tangerine’s peel, nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, Chinese pepper, star anise, cumin, costus root, angelica, kaempferia, alpinia, and dried ginger, are the choices of seasonings. The “Thirteen-spices Crawfish” (十三香小龙虾) is a well-known course that originated in the aforementioned Xuyi county. The dish uses “Thirteen Spices,” a mixed powder of more than thirteen spices, as the main seasoning, endowing the course a unique and palatable aroma. Both the variety and quantity of crops and vegetables are prominent in standard, advocating the creativity and diversity of Su cuisine.
Culinary techniques
Encompassing an array of delicate food processing techniques, Su cuisine requires highly skilled workmanship and an aesthetic taste. Thus, it has been linked to a noble lifestyle and culinary arts since ancient times. Precise heating methods, temperature, and timing are the fundamentals to present ingredients in their optimal conditions. Braising, stewing, steaming, warming, stir-frying, and simmering are commonly applied when preparing Su cuisine [10, 11]. Among them, braising, stewing, stir-frying, and steaming appear more often than other heating methods [11].
The exquisite carving and cutting technique are the most extraordinary characteristic of Su cuisine. All ingredients are finely chopped, and all dishes are elegantly shaped in pursuit of perfection. Braised Dry Tofu (大煮干丝), a delicacy of Su cuisine, demonstrates the cutting skills of Jiangsu’s Chief. A two-centimeter thick Dried Tofu is cut into thinner slices, sometimes as many as thirty pieces [12]. The idiom commonly used to describe the thinness is “as thin as the wings of a cicada (薄如蝉翼)” in Chinese. After slicing, the thin slices are further shredded into matchsticks, approximately two millimeters wide.
Food carving skills serve more of an artistic purpose compared to cutting skills. Yangzhou city in Jiangsu province is an ancient city with early civilization and rich cultural heritage. Food carving in Yangzhou has gained its fame back in the Qing Dynasty (1644–1912)2 [13]. Now, it has been included as the Intangible Cultural Heritage in Jiangsu [13]. The four essential determinants of a complete food carving process are conceptualization, visualization, carving, and holism [14]. Melons, radishes, carrots, potatoes, and yams are common ingredients used for food carving. The intricate details are achieved using numerous knife techniques, such as carving, picking, cutting, scraping, stabbing, twisting, gouging, digging, and engraving, etc.
Flavor and appearance
Sour, sweet, salty, bitter, and umami are the well-known five primary tastes. Yet, Su cuisine is pursuing a more intricate flavor involving not only tastes but also sensations. The old saying, “seven taste and seven senses (七滋七味),” may be the best to describe the multilayered flavors of Su cuisine. The seven tastes contain sour, sweet, bitter, spicy, salty, aromatic, and stinky, while the seven senses include umami, soft, crispy, tender, brittle, thick, and fatty [15]. Su cuisine’s concept of moderation, in every perspective, is allied with one of the most influential and profound philosophies in China, the Golden Mean. Thus, chiefs tend to even the flavor out, balance the nutrition, and match the colors. Mild, refreshingly silky, lightly sweet, and umami tastes constitute the characteristics of Su cuisine [2, 10]. Since braising and stewing are strongly preferred by Jiangsu’s chief, the texture of meat or poultry courses is usually tender and soft but not mushy. Condiments and seasonings are not used heavily, aiming to preserve the natural taste and reveal the pure beauty of ingredients. Various indigenous plants and aquatic food bring a rich aroma to Su cuisine. A sip of the original stock is the taste of simplicity.
While the flavor of Su cuisine targets minimalist, the appearance is rather Byzantine. As the taste of the course relies more on the freshness and quality of the ingredients, the appearance becomes the chiefs’ arena. Dishes are shaped elegantly, displaying the creativity and skillfulness of the chief. As the finishing touch, courses are covered with alluring colors and decorated with carved food. The subtle flavor and appealing presentation are broadly favored by people nationwide, making Su cuisine the most popular choice of a banquet in China.